Bharatpur, Faithful lover's return

Keoladeo Ghana Bird sanctuary is full of exotic, foreign winged visitors who migrate here from across the globe in Bharatpur. Spring is the time for courtship and nesting, when all the species become lovebirds. The other seasons also have their own attractions. The rains are for breeding and rearing young, with nests across the parklands brimming with mottled and specked eggs of many colours. Once the hunting ground of the Maharaja of Bharatpur, the scrub, swamps and marshes of the 29-sq km Keoladeo was later turned into a bird sanctuary and now ranks among the most visited in India.

To take in the essence of the park, divide your trips over the different times of the day. An early morning sojourn into the park means being at the main gate by 6.30 am. Get a ticket and find yourself a guide. No motor vehicles are allowed inside and if you do not want to exert yourself then there are cycle- rickshaws and bicycles. There are lots of paths to be explored in the sanctuary, but the maximum sightings are on the paths bothering the swamps. Make a particular route for yourself for the morning trip like reach the main tank, Sapan Mori, and then turn right towards the Keoladeo Temple. Along this route you will be delighted by encounters with the star visitors, the Great White Siberian Cranes, if it's winter.
Post lunch trip is the time to catch anything in the bright sun and one of the most spectacular sights is not of birds, but the pythons. Head for Sapan Mori again, this time going left towards the pythons sunning ground. Keep silent and soon you will see these majestic creatures lazily lying around in loose coils near their holes.

The Mansarovar and Hansarovar marshes and the swamps and lakes of Bharatpur constitute one of the most important heronries in the world. For this Keoladeo is a World Heritage Site. The park guarantees good sightings of purple heron and several other species. You will see long- toed jacans walking magically across the water and large flocks of pelicans and flamingoes fishing in the deeper water.

At the tourist reception center boat rides can be booked if there is enough water in the lakes and boating season is on. This is a unique experience, as one can get much closer to the birds and is an ideal opportunity for keen photography.

Lohagarh Fort was built by Raja Suraj Mal in the 18th centaury, is a flamboyant amalgamation of Mughal and Rajput architecture over the years. There is a government museum in the Fort, which exhibits the art and culture of the region, including various inscriptions and sculptures.

Most of the places to stay are along Dr Salim Ali road, which runs from Bharatpur to the entrance of the park. You can stay at Laxmi Vilas Palace, Kadam Kunj, The Birdies Inn and many more. There are many restaurants like Hotel Sunbird while Nightingale is a good option for a tandoori dinner. However Sunbird can also organize dinner with a born fire, even if you aren't staying there.

Sariska National Park, ancient tiger lands.

Sariska wildlife sanctuary is green, serene and was the hunting preserve of the Alwar royals, and its palace has been privy to many of these shoots. There is the sight of first hill burnished with the rust leaves of dhok, as one crosses over the hill into Kalighati Valley. There is a leaf – fringed avenue of dhok that greets the visitor at the old gate leading to Kankwari, overgrown on both sides with old trees of guler and pilkhan. Then there is a site of an explosion of blue- breasted quail, of the deep pools of the Siliberi Nala flowing down from Pandupol and of Pallas fishing edges watching for prey from nearby evergreen trees. I still treasure these memories from my numerous visits to Sariska.

My last tiger sighting at Sariska, one hot April was in the grassland just beyond Kalighati. Sariska was established as a Tiger Reserve in 1978. Before independence, the reserve was part of the erstwhile Alwar state. There are 16 revenue villages and associated cattle camps inside its boundaries. Almost all of the Sariska is hilly terrain dominated by the Aravallis, which run north- south along the park. Two vast plateaus Kanwari and Keraska top the Aravalli. There are three large lakes within the boundary of the park: Mangalsar, Sillserh and Somasagar.

Early morning and evening are the best times to make trips into Sariska National Park, though chances of spotting the cat are few and far between. That’s just not on the account of the diminishing tiger population, but more on account of the terrain like the undulating low hills, wide valleys and hill plateaus are hardly ideal for tiger spotting.

You would be easily able to view the nilgai, chital, langur cavorting through the tree cover. And by luck you might also view the tigers, leopard, jackal, with dogs and hyena. However birdwatchers can spot the white- breasted kingfisher, serpent eagle, great Indian horned owl and other avian species quite easily.

The most enjoyable part is the drive through the park where paths are dip down into the valleys and sinister shadows cross the jungle. If you want to do a cross-country jungle safari, then book one of the authorized forest jeeps well in advance at one of the two hotels Tiger Den and Sariska Palace.

When you are done with the animals, drive down into the Sariska forests to the ruined fortress atop a solitary hillock at Kankwari. Here emperor Aurangzeb imprisoned his elder brother widely held to be the legitimate successor to the throne of Delhi. From Kankwari move on to Neelkanth, a temple town near Tehla builds by the Gurjar Partiharas. Neelkanth was mysteriously submerged under a deluge of sand and rocks centuries ago, and nobody around knows what made the town suffer such a fate. The Naldehwar shrine nearby attracts hordes of pilgrims and picnickers- the former to the natural shivaling formed within an old tree trunk in the higher reaches of the forest, the latter to the little brook and seasonal waterfall at the base of 364 steps you have to climb to reach the lingam.

Sariska has only two choices to stay, a heritage hotel and Rajasthan tourism property Sariska Palace and Tiger Den. There are no options to dine apart from your hotel. However a visit to one of Alwar’s most popular eateries, the Prem Pavitra Restaurant is a must.

Amritsar, Golden domes and spicy papad city

Amritsar remains a city of tumultuous bazaars, of all modes of transport nearly missing all kinds of pedestrians, of stray dogs and placidly wandering cows, which seems same as told by my grandmother when I was small. Those who love Amritsar for them Golden temple has overtaken the Taj Mahal to become India’s most – visited monument. At heart’s it’s still the dera of Guru Ram Dass. It’s soul the incomparable Golden Temple, has desecrated and damaged countless time over centuries. Afghans and Mughals sacked the holy city several times, the Sikhs squabbled over it amongst themselves, it bears the scars of the violence of partition, the atrocities of Jallianwala Bagh and operation bluestar bears the scars. Yet each time the city has rebuilt its shrine and itself with unshakeable determination.

As the GT Road eases into the urban sprawl of Amritsar, the first tell tale sign is a rapid build up of traffic. Then concrete boxes replace the green fields. The faith of Harmandir commands continues to dominate the spirit of Amritsar, resulting in an overwhelming atmosphere of devotion. Make your parikrama of the Harmandir Sahib or Darbar Sahib around the golden temple, partake of the langar and move on reassured of the brotherhood of humanity that is this gurudwara greatest gift to all comers. Wash your feet and climb up the marble steps. As you climb down again towards the centre of the complex, the Golden temple is revealed to you in all its glory. The shining façade of this graceful gurudwara is accentuated not only by hundreds lights but by the faith and devotion it commands from its followers, many of whom are not even of the Sikh faith.

The Harmandir Sahib consists of two large shrines and many smaller subsidiary shrines. All set around a large tank known as the Lake of Nectar. The complex is a sea of white marble, trimmed with eye- catching features picked out in gold leaf and fine stone inlay. The airwaves are dominated by the sweet sounds of gurbani, the Sikhs hymns. Bathing in the Amrit Sarovar is of course an ancient tradition. The water is believed to have healing powers and so draws the sick and the ailing from all faiths. Bring a towel along if you want to go in for a dip. There is walled off portion where woman may bath.

The streets around the complex are dotted with many gurudwaras and spots of historical interest. The temple is situated in the oldest area of the city, abutted by ancient, crowded bazaars dotted with elderly historical buildings. The Gurudwara Baba atal and the Gurudwara Mata Kaulan are both within walking distance if the Harmandir as is the Guru Ke Mahal where the Guru’s lived when Golden Temple was under construction. Also nearby is the charming Gurudwara Saragarhi sahib.

Jallianwala Bagh is small clearing outside the Old city, is lined on every side by buildings outside a high, unbroken wall. It is very easy to miss the single small entrance to the spot where on April 13, 1919, a crowd filed through this same narrow alley to hear a nationalist speech or two. However Brigadier General Reginald Dyer decided to break up the assembly. He blocked the alley with armored cars and ordered his troops to open fire on the peaceful, unarmed crowd. Over 300 people, including children, died and closed to a thousand were injured. Now its landscaped garden with a museum run by the Jallianwala Bagh Trust. It’s favorite with children, who play hide- and- seek in its hedges. The well has been bricked up, trees planted where the corpses lay. The original boundary walls have also been preserved, complete with the dents circled in white paint and labeled bullet mark.

The markets of the Old city are much more exotic than the main shopping areas of the New City. The Hall Bazaar in the purana shehr and the areas surroundings the Kotwali are vast and traditional shopping areas. Their pickles and papad are famous. The bazaar outside Darbara Sahib is the place where you will found stainless steel cutlery and consecrated weaponry.
Amritsar offers many hotel accommodations from basic to the higher category like MK Hotel, Ritz Plaza, Mohan International Hotel and many more.

Jim Corbett National Park

Corbett, the first national park and tiger reserve in India, is located in the valley of the Ramganga River near the foothills of the Himalayas. Its proximity to Delhi and its wildlife make it a must visit destination for residents and guests tempted to go beyond the capital of India. While visiting Corbett you would be able to stay right within it at Dhikala and other forest rest house.
For birdwatchers, there are over 580 species to view; moreover you can also view reptiles such as turtles and gharial. All of which make Corbett one of the most complete wildlife experiences, besides being close enough to them without any hesitation.
Tourists are only allowed restricted entry by permit into about 100km of the tiger reserve area. You can enter them through Dhikala from the Dhangarhi gate, Bijrani from the Amdanda gate and Jhirna from the Dhela gate. Permission to enter the park are issued at the Tourist Reception Centre or the park’s entrance gate at Dhangarhi for Dhikala which is also the main center of activity in the park.
Visitors must move around in the park by car or jeep, accompanied by a licensed guide and most important walking is strictly prohibited and if found you will be arrested. There are few private resorts spread out and the forest department also provides few rest houses in the reserve area. Entry fee for Indians is Rs 30; foreigners Rs. 350, for elephant ride Indians Rs. 100, foreigners Rs 200 and a licensed guide Rs. 75 per trip.
You can also take a safari among the muddy tracks of Corbett lined with shoulder high grass on both the side or hire a vehicle from the forest Department or various tour organizers. You should carry a pair of binoculars, water and a heat gear. You might not be lucky enough to sight a tiger but you might certainly hear the roar of one or see the tiger’s pugmarks or his half eaten kill. Full jeep hire costs Rs700 from KMVN. Private jeeps are also available outside the park gates at Rs500-600 for the trip.
Clambering onto an elephant is the most promising way of tracking tigers. Plus you would also feel safe when you spot tiger while the elephant moves up closer to give you a better view. Also try the elephant safari at least once, preferably in the evening. Make your booking at the Forest Department well in advance as these rides are popular and get fully booked very soon. Fishing is not allowed inside the reserve.
Corbett also has many resorts in the area, which are full of vacationers on weekends for part of the year when the park is closed. So do book in advance.

Rajasthan, The Desert Fortress

Rajasthan

Rajasthan is a vibrant, exotic state where tradition and royal glory meet in a riot of colors against the vast backdrop of sand and desert. It has an unusual diversity in its entire forms- people, customs, culture, costumes, music, manners, dialects, cuisine and physiography. The land is endowed with invincible forts, magnificent palace havelis, rich culture and heritage, beauty and natural resources. It is a land rich in music, Dance, Art & Craft and Adventure, a land that never ceases to intrigue & enchant.

In the west, Rajasthan is relatively dry and infertile; this area includes some of the Thar Desert, also known as the Great Indian Desert. In the southwestern part of the state, the land is wetter, hilly, and more fertile. The climate varies throughout Rajasthan. On average winter temperatures range from 8° to 28° C (46° to 82° F) and summer temperatures range from 25° to 46° C (77° to 115° F).

The magic of Rajasthan is unequalled in the world for its heritage, culture, safaris, sand dunes and lush green forests with its wildlife. The Amber Fort, Jantar Mantar, Dilwara Temples, Chittorgarh Fort, Lake Palace Hotel, Jain temples, Lohagarh Fort, Keoladeo National Park, Hawa Mahal, Pichhola Lake, City Palace and Jaisalmer Havelis provide a plethora of entertainment and information to the inquisitive traveler.

Like its heritage, Rajasthan is culturally rich and has an extensive art and culture tradition, which reflects the Indian way life. The erstwhile rulers and patrons promoted the dance, music and art forms ardently and to this day, you will find colourfully clad men, women and children sing blissfully to the tunes of the ‘sarangi’ (musical instrument with strings). The music renders uncomplicated innocence and the songs depict day-to-day relationships and household chores. The Rajasthani folk dance is unparallel in form and technique. What is interesting is the interweaving of bravery, culture, tradition, romance, treachery, ethos, drama in these dances.

Rajasthan is also proud of its rich and varied folk culture espoused from villages. The fascinating & mesmerizing culture is a proliferation of the Rajput lifestyle followed since ages.

This ‘Pink City’ also offers some very exciting outdoor activities for the thirsty traveler. With a varied topography like desert, lakes and jungle, all encompassed in one shell, travelers can take a safari ride on horses, camels, elephants or even jeeps with the Aravalis - India's oldest mountain range in the backdrop, enjoy a starlit dinner next to the sloppy sand dunes or trail a tiger or just watch birds on wetland. Alternatively, wildlife enthusiasts can go to Ranthambore to spot tigers.

Rajasthan owes its culinary excellence to the Rajput rulers. During their rule, the preparation of food was a very complex matter and was raised to the levels of an art form. Rajasthani cooking was inclined to the war-like lifestyle of medieval Rajasthan and the availability of ingredients of the region. Food that could last for several days and could be eaten without heating was preferred, more out of necessity than choice. Thus the 'Khansamas' (the royal cooks) worked in the stately palaces and kept their most enigmatic recipes to themselves. Some recipes were passed on to their descendants and the rest were passed on as skills to the chefs of semi states and the branded hotel companies. Today, the royal kitchens of Rajasthan have attained international recognition with their lip smacking dishes like ‘dal bati chuirma’, ‘sangri ki subzi’ and ‘kaer ka achar’.

A resplendent tradition and culture with an even resplendent lifestyle, the colourful Rajasthan is a heaven for travelers offering diverse cuisines, music and soul endearing folklore.