Kumarakom, Queen of Vembanad

It is the perfect backwater village of KumarakomVembanad Lake, 15 km west of Kottayam. My biggest dream of seeing the backwaters of Kerala came live when I went there. It is the best weekend destination or getaway of the people of Kerala. Kumarakom is a perfect resort destination for the honeymooners, couples and the backwaters lover. It is a tiny village on the edge of Vembanad Lake which was practically unknown till Henry Baker purchased the land from the erstwhile Raja of Travancore to build himself a grand home. When they left India, Taj hotels stepped in to turn it into a fancy resort, changing the fortunes of the once quiet fishing hamlet. But today when I see it, it is a maze of modern resorts and heritage homes cum hotels spilling over the island banks.

I started experiencing the Vembanad backwaters slowly and leisurely. I hired a kettuvallom, the traditional rice boat turned houseboat. There are many floating hotels range from tiny canoes to houseboats capped by elaborate superstructures of bamboo and rosewood, paneled with mats of screwpine. There are scores of motorboats available to take a ride on Vembanad Lake. I saw the past paddy and coconut groves, mangroves, along fresh water canals and rivers that debouch into Vembanad Lake. Around Onam the waters of Vembanad at Kumarakom come alive with boat races such as the Kumarakom Arpookara Vanitha Jalmela and the Kavanthikara Boat Race. I also came to know that I can even fish in these waters and some of the resorts also offered water skiing and wind sailing.

The next day my plan was to view the bird sanctuary of Kumarakom which is spread across 14 acres on the eastern banks of Vembanad Lake. It is best to visit the sanctuary on foot by a 1 ½ km long walking track, where I spot heron, darters, storks, teals and common egrets. I also took the boat ride and came across waders like waterfall and ducks and some filers like parrots, larks and flycatchers. And I went in mid November last year which is the time when the sanctuary turns into a transit lounge for migratory birds. The entry fees was only Rs. 5 however the guide took Rs. 100 from me and the timings were 6 am to 6.30 pm which meant I had to go back soon to reach the starting point of the sanctuary.

My third and the last day were to relax on my houseboat and view the Museum of VembanadLake. On the Kumarakom jetty itself a distinctive building with its pillared verandah and sloping tiled roof at the Market junction is the Bay Island Driftwood Museum. It displays the art of the sea chiseled driftwood gathered from the beaches of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in the Bay of Bengal. It was unique as I haven’t seen any museum displaying these things before. Raji Punnoose, a retired teacher were chiseled by him into shapes that vary from a crocodile found off Port Blair’s Wandoor Beach to a sculpture Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose I also purchased few sculptures here to gift them to my family and friends. And my last night in Kumarakom Lake Resort which also offered ayurvedic centre, backwater cruises, gift shop, Jacuzzi and water sports, I though of enjoying few of them.

There are many Kumarakom Holiday Packages available now. For Driving Directions from Kochi to Kumarakom check this out.

Thalassery, drumbeats of another age

The coastline from Kannur to Thalassery to Mahe forms an exotic necklace of rivers and beaches, each with its own ambience in Kerala. A comfortable walk from the stadium brought me to the temple of the fisher folk near the maiden where cricket was first played in India many years ago. It stood on a beautiful stretch of beach, a symbol of gratitude to the Arabian sea for its bounty and its grace.

The Catholic Rosary church stood next to the English church and fort, south west of the cricket maiden. While the former pulses with the even tempo of daily prayer, the latter is closed. The Juma Masjid stands in friendly proximity and the three buildings stand together, wafting their prayers on the same elements.

Then comes the Wellesley’s bungalow which savour’s the peace and amble, the house is owned by Mr. Babar, a company man, played host to Lord Wellesley as Wellesley was the one who introduced cricket to Indians.

To get the birds eye view of this whole complex I climb to the ramparts of the Tellicherry Fort which is at the south west of the cricket maiden. Was built in 1700, I still saw the pepper cellars from which trade was conducted. Situated on a headland guarding the port, it provides a panoramic view of sea and land, picturesquely its invulnerability over the ages.

And then for relaxing I went to the lovely beach called a folly where I watched the glorious sunsets of Malabar.

Situated on the south bank of the Moolakadavu River and bisected by the Mahe River, Mahe south of Thalassery, is the area that the French East India Company negotiated as a trading post. It still remains a segment of the Union Territory of Pondicherry. A fascinating aspect of Mahe was the line of old families of the area has retained their joint family homes. The architectural style which has been used here is French giving the streets a distinction of its own. And there is a church which is famed for the efficacy of prayers said here St Theresa’s Church on the main road, draws people of all faith. At Cherukallu 1 km from Mahe, St George’s fort provides a spectacular view of Mahe and its environs. Not too distant are the ruins of the fort built by Thatcholli Othenan, a legendary hero of Malabar and a superb kalaripayattu exponent. Also on the River Mahe 1km from the centre is Mahe Boat House, which is delightful little boating pier.

A visit to the biggest cinnamon plantation in Asia, established by East India Company agent Murdich Brown in 1790’s should definitely on the agenda as it also has the distinction of being the first plantation registered in Kerala.

Thalassery is not generously equipped with fine hotels, barring one beautiful home stay at Ayisha Manzil where I stayed and it sits on a cliff overlooking the Arabian Sea.

Manali Hotels

My stay at Hotel Sitara International was very good. The hotel has picturesque location, overlooking the lush green valley and snow clad mountains. The room was well decorated, spacious, and luxurious. I'll recommend trekking around the mountain side (which hotel can provide on request, better that you do it on your own); you can also try camping, trekking, water rafting, regular skiing and other adventure sports if you are keen. I recommend around September-October and December if you withstand the cold.

Well there are few other hotels which I liked while I was in Manali as I did little research before making a reservation were :

Manali Continental

http://www.hotelmanalicontinental.com/About_hotel.html

Sagar Resort

http://www.sagarresort.com/sagarmanali.htm

Royal Park

http://www.hotelroyalpark.in/

Quality Inn River Country

http://www.travelmasti.com/qualityinn_river_manali.htm

Highland Park

http://indoexpedition.com/highlandpark.html

Snowcrest Manor

http://www.nivalink.com/snowcrest/index.html

The Orchid Greens

http://www.access-india.com/himachal-manali-hotel-orchardgreen.htm

Saputara, dispatch from the dangs

Saputara is the only hill station in Gujarat. Saputara was names by the Dangs tribal of the Gujarat districts for they came here during festivals like Holi and Nag Panchmi worship the snake on the bank of nearby Sarpganga River. The air is chilly and the mists fall over the town in the evenings. Plenty of walking is possible and if it’s just a quite getaway one is looking for, Saputara is ideal, and streets ahead of the Lonavalas, Igatpuris that populate Mumbai’s imagination. Saputara overlooks the green valley as there are no auto rickshaws or taxis here as it is so small.

It is a vacation spot for trekking or taking leisurely walks around the lake and the hills. There are quite a few gardens like Rose garden, Step garden and Lake Garden if walking gets too much. There are also few points worth a visit like Echo point and Town view point if you want to gaze at hills. Then there are tribal villages of Bhils, Warlis and Gamits close enough to trek to. Then there are also Hatgadh fort and Pandava Caves to explore all on foot. And the legend goes that Ram spent his 11 years of his 14 years in exile walking about in the forests here. You can also go through the rope way if you are not interested in the treks which will give you the rides and the views. The placid lake is one of the Saputara main attractions and the paddleboats here operate throughout the year.

The Saputara Museum is small, just a couple of rooms which showcase the life and arts of the Dangs tribal. Then we also have the Brahma Kumari establishment here. The local Dang tribal are famous for bamboo handicrafts like pen stands, key chains, jewellery and masks. The town also has an artist’s village and a centre for honey.

Saputara has plenty of places to stay in like Toran Hill resort, Vaity ropeway Resort, Hotel Anando and many more.

Malshej Ghat, up where you belong

When we reached Malshej ghat we did not required the sign board. We entered a short regular tunnel, little expecting the light at the end of it to fall on waterfalls cascading down as if the set designer of the ghats was suddenly overcome with recklessness and decided to see how much beauty one place could handle.

The drive up was beautiful enough, but when we got the first view of the backwaters of Pimpalgaon Joga dam, the picture has the kind of ethereal quality that marked our breath catch in our throat.

Malshej Ghat is a wildly beautiful haven of towering peaks and bottomless valleys, home to a hundred different kind of flora and fauna, and mountain air so fragment and pure, I wished I could pack some to take back home.

Perched on the very edge of a plateau, the MTDC hotel, managed by a private party, is gifted with the best location. But just 160- odd ft from its restaurant, in the hotel’s very backyard is lands end. A gentle rain blows in a tired breeze as we walked to the edge. As we looked down to the valley, the drizzle changes its route; it begins to rain upwards, from downwards. As we trekked up the hills we saw again a giant waterfall that rises up into the air instead of falling down into the valley, such is the force of the winds in these ghats. Malshej what I discovered is for long walks down twisting mountain trails, for plucking wild flowers for your beloved, for shouting something into the valleys and waiting for affirmation.

In the monsoon, Malshej has series of waterfalls. One or two falls generously right on the state highway taking a bath and having hot pakoras is a ultimate start away for a weekend in a Malshej ghat. Right at the point where the falls makes a mess of narrow curving state highway is what the government calls the Nature spot. While on one side of the road water gushes out from the hilltops, the other side is a huge empty expansion of white mist and bright green. Malshej is very wet in monsoon as it rains from all sides here, even from below as we have seen.
We stayed as the Flamingo Hill resort, and then there is Sushant Holiday resort

Khajuraho, Many explanations for love

Khajuraho conjures up images of a society that celebrated life and was not abashed by sex. It was the first capital of Chandelas, who rose to rule the region in the 9th century. Right from the onset Khajuraho was envisaged as a temple town, which accounts for the absence of any non religious structures other than tanks and lakes.

We started our journey from The Western Group, near the Shiv Sagar, by either hiring an auto headset from its ticket booth or hiring a guide. We started on cycles as Khajuraho is best when exploded from cycles which are available from stands in front of the Western Group.

The temples in this complex were large and lavishly decorated, displaying the wealth and power of its rulers. These are dedicated either to Vishnu or Shiva. The most refined temple in the complex, the Lakshmana Temple is the seat of Vishnu as Vaikuntham. The enshrined statue was 4-ft high, has three faces lion, man and boar and is said to have been acquired from the Kashmir – Chamba region. On its base, starting from the left are depictions from everyday life, including marching armies, domestic life, dancers and orgies. The temple has four subsidiary shrines on its platform. In front of the temple are two smaller shrines, one dedicated to the Devi and other to Varaha.

The Kandariya Mahadeva, an extremely harmonious and rhythmic temple is a Shiva temple. Standing on the same platform and north of the Kandariya Mahadev temple, the Devi Jagadamba Temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, its special feature include imaginative renditions of shardulas, mythical beasts with the body of lion and the head of a parrot, elephant or boar. The only sun temple in Khajuraho, the Chandragupta Temple stands fourth on the same platform. It houses a 7 ft image of the sun god dressed in armored coat and boots. The sun stands on a chariot pulled by seven horses. The temple’s other special features include a scene of sculptors at their work carved on the plinth, and an interesting statue of an 11 headed Vishnu on the South Hall. Through the garden, towards the east, lies the Parvati Temple, a small shrine believed to have been dedicated to Vishnu. And to the right of the Parvati Temple stands Vishwanatha Temple, the grandest temple of Khajuraho, dedicated to Shiva, its special features include an intact Nandi shrine, apsaras writing letters, playing music and so on; and a stone lingam.

Matangeshwara Temple, the only living temple, stands outside the enclosure, just next to the Lakshmana Temple is dedicated to Shiva.
The Eastern group of temples is divided into two rough clusters. The first bunch of four temples falls near the Old Khajuraho Village and the other, comprising Jain temples falls behind of the school at the back of the village. We begin with the Ghantai Temple which is on the edge of the old village, and there were only pillars bearing carved bell and chain motifs left. The Vamana Temple enshrined a chubby dwarf, interpreted either as a vamana or a Vishnu incarnation. The nearby Javari Temple is dedicated to Vishnu. The Jain temples are situated within a compound constructed and maintained by the Digambara sect. The largest of these temples was dedicated to Adinath; its special feature is that the both Hindu pantheon and figures associated with Jainism can be finding representing on its wall.
In the Southern Group there are only two temples one dedicated to Lord Shiva and is called Duladeva Temple and the other to Lord Vishnu and is called Chaturbhuj Temple.
There are three museums which we visited where they were sculptures of Vishnu, Shiva and Jain figures.

There are lots of places of shopping in Khajuraho selling iron, brass and stone things. There are all types of luxury hotels in Khajuraho like The Grand Temple View, Holiday Inn and many more.

Bharatpur, Faithful lover's return

Keoladeo Ghana Bird sanctuary is full of exotic, foreign winged visitors who migrate here from across the globe in Bharatpur. Spring is the time for courtship and nesting, when all the species become lovebirds. The other seasons also have their own attractions. The rains are for breeding and rearing young, with nests across the parklands brimming with mottled and specked eggs of many colours. Once the hunting ground of the Maharaja of Bharatpur, the scrub, swamps and marshes of the 29-sq km Keoladeo was later turned into a bird sanctuary and now ranks among the most visited in India.

To take in the essence of the park, divide your trips over the different times of the day. An early morning sojourn into the park means being at the main gate by 6.30 am. Get a ticket and find yourself a guide. No motor vehicles are allowed inside and if you do not want to exert yourself then there are cycle- rickshaws and bicycles. There are lots of paths to be explored in the sanctuary, but the maximum sightings are on the paths bothering the swamps. Make a particular route for yourself for the morning trip like reach the main tank, Sapan Mori, and then turn right towards the Keoladeo Temple. Along this route you will be delighted by encounters with the star visitors, the Great White Siberian Cranes, if it's winter.
Post lunch trip is the time to catch anything in the bright sun and one of the most spectacular sights is not of birds, but the pythons. Head for Sapan Mori again, this time going left towards the pythons sunning ground. Keep silent and soon you will see these majestic creatures lazily lying around in loose coils near their holes.

The Mansarovar and Hansarovar marshes and the swamps and lakes of Bharatpur constitute one of the most important heronries in the world. For this Keoladeo is a World Heritage Site. The park guarantees good sightings of purple heron and several other species. You will see long- toed jacans walking magically across the water and large flocks of pelicans and flamingoes fishing in the deeper water.

At the tourist reception center boat rides can be booked if there is enough water in the lakes and boating season is on. This is a unique experience, as one can get much closer to the birds and is an ideal opportunity for keen photography.

Lohagarh Fort was built by Raja Suraj Mal in the 18th centaury, is a flamboyant amalgamation of Mughal and Rajput architecture over the years. There is a government museum in the Fort, which exhibits the art and culture of the region, including various inscriptions and sculptures.

Most of the places to stay are along Dr Salim Ali road, which runs from Bharatpur to the entrance of the park. You can stay at Laxmi Vilas Palace, Kadam Kunj, The Birdies Inn and many more. There are many restaurants like Hotel Sunbird while Nightingale is a good option for a tandoori dinner. However Sunbird can also organize dinner with a born fire, even if you aren't staying there.