Pachmarhi, Primeval Wilderness

Pachmarhi is India’s unusual getaways little hill station. It is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh, and nestles in a small saucer shaped plateau. It enclosed a primeval landscape of lush sal and bamboo forest. When I went there the town according to me consists of small bazaar, an army station and a sprawling civil area that retained a distinct colonial ambience. Pachmarhi was the summer capital of the former Central provinces and used to host a major golf tournament.

I went on a jeep tour to view the famous sunset from Dhupgarh, Bee falls and the Jatashankar and Mahadeo shrines. However I walked to Fairy Pool and the for the specular view of all these falls I climbed up the Chauragarh Peak, which according to a local springs to life during the annual Shivratri mela, with lakhs of trishul- carrying yatris snaking up from the neighboring Chindwara District. Within the civil area was the Buddhist period, rock – hewn Pandav Caves, the government gardens and Bison Lodge, a museum. I enjoyed the ideal mode of transport bicycle in Pachmarhi. Then a scenic two hour walk is the bridle path around Astachal rejoining the road near the cave of Reechgarh, and passing by the Dorothy Deep rock shelter.

Then I went to Satpura National Park, to the west and north of Pachmarhi. It offered spectacular scenery and varied wildlife like bison, sambhar and the occasional cat. I visited the park by jeep from the Neemgham entrance.

I stayed at Rock End Manor which is a bungalow situated on a hillock. Then there is Saptura Retreat, Evelyn’s Own, Panchvati cottages and many to go.

Khajuraho, Many explanations for love

Khajuraho conjures up images of a society that celebrated life and was not abashed by sex. It was the first capital of Chandelas, who rose to rule the region in the 9th century. Right from the onset Khajuraho was envisaged as a temple town, which accounts for the absence of any non religious structures other than tanks and lakes.

We started our journey from The Western Group, near the Shiv Sagar, by either hiring an auto headset from its ticket booth or hiring a guide. We started on cycles as Khajuraho is best when exploded from cycles which are available from stands in front of the Western Group.

The temples in this complex were large and lavishly decorated, displaying the wealth and power of its rulers. These are dedicated either to Vishnu or Shiva. The most refined temple in the complex, the Lakshmana Temple is the seat of Vishnu as Vaikuntham. The enshrined statue was 4-ft high, has three faces lion, man and boar and is said to have been acquired from the Kashmir – Chamba region. On its base, starting from the left are depictions from everyday life, including marching armies, domestic life, dancers and orgies. The temple has four subsidiary shrines on its platform. In front of the temple are two smaller shrines, one dedicated to the Devi and other to Varaha.

The Kandariya Mahadeva, an extremely harmonious and rhythmic temple is a Shiva temple. Standing on the same platform and north of the Kandariya Mahadev temple, the Devi Jagadamba Temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, its special feature include imaginative renditions of shardulas, mythical beasts with the body of lion and the head of a parrot, elephant or boar. The only sun temple in Khajuraho, the Chandragupta Temple stands fourth on the same platform. It houses a 7 ft image of the sun god dressed in armored coat and boots. The sun stands on a chariot pulled by seven horses. The temple’s other special features include a scene of sculptors at their work carved on the plinth, and an interesting statue of an 11 headed Vishnu on the South Hall. Through the garden, towards the east, lies the Parvati Temple, a small shrine believed to have been dedicated to Vishnu. And to the right of the Parvati Temple stands Vishwanatha Temple, the grandest temple of Khajuraho, dedicated to Shiva, its special features include an intact Nandi shrine, apsaras writing letters, playing music and so on; and a stone lingam.

Matangeshwara Temple, the only living temple, stands outside the enclosure, just next to the Lakshmana Temple is dedicated to Shiva.
The Eastern group of temples is divided into two rough clusters. The first bunch of four temples falls near the Old Khajuraho Village and the other, comprising Jain temples falls behind of the school at the back of the village. We begin with the Ghantai Temple which is on the edge of the old village, and there were only pillars bearing carved bell and chain motifs left. The Vamana Temple enshrined a chubby dwarf, interpreted either as a vamana or a Vishnu incarnation. The nearby Javari Temple is dedicated to Vishnu. The Jain temples are situated within a compound constructed and maintained by the Digambara sect. The largest of these temples was dedicated to Adinath; its special feature is that the both Hindu pantheon and figures associated with Jainism can be finding representing on its wall.
In the Southern Group there are only two temples one dedicated to Lord Shiva and is called Duladeva Temple and the other to Lord Vishnu and is called Chaturbhuj Temple.
There are three museums which we visited where they were sculptures of Vishnu, Shiva and Jain figures.

There are lots of places of shopping in Khajuraho selling iron, brass and stone things. There are all types of luxury hotels in Khajuraho like The Grand Temple View, Holiday Inn and many more.

Hampi, the soul amidst the ruins

Hampi is a historical site scattered with ruins and excavations in Karnataka. As the capital of the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagara and was a beautiful city in its prime. Entering the vicinity of Hampi, I saw massive boulders in the largely rocky landscape, balanced on or against seemingly precarious positions. Hampi is a weekend getaway from Bangalore. Its silence can settle into our soul and we can begin to feel its vibrations. I found places of great natural beauty in mountains, seaside’s, plains and deserts.

The village of Hampi has one main street Hampi Bazaar, which is closed to all vehicular traffic. The bus stand is just off it on the eastern side. At the western extreme is the Virupaksha Temple and the eastern extreme of the street is the museum at the base of Matangi Hill, run by the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums. And a few meters from this are the steps that lead to the Achutaraya Temple, which bypasses the Matangi Hill.

We hired cycles to ride as it was the best way to see the place. We carried sun creams, for protection from the sun, and carried a picnic lunch and water along. On our first day here and we boarded a car to get the overview of the ruins, however if you are not into affection for history then Hampi is not for you. As there are no pubs, no non veg restaurants, none of the ease of conversation one can strike up. The sites were plenty and absolutely not to miss where the Virupaksha Temple, Vittala Temple, Queen’s bath, Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stable, Underground well, Mint and the Watch Tower, Hampi Bazaar, Sule Bazaar, Tungabhadra Dam, Hanuman Temple across the river at Anegundi.

Then there was a photo exhibition at the museum situated at the bottom of Matangi Hill. It consists of 60 enlarged pictures of Hampi taken by a British photographer around 200 years ago.
While other places boast boat rides across placid lakes and rubber dignity rides on fiery rapids, Hampi allows you to cross the nicely moving Tungabhadra River in what’s look like a coconut shell. This coracle not only depends entirely on the skills of boatman to move it along and prevent it from capsizing, it also requires you to squat on the sloped edges before it can move.

There are many Hampi hotels that are starting from Rs. 100 – Rs. 600 per day all over the Hampi Bazaar.