Thursday, December 27, 2007

The fort and Scindia Palace of Gwalior


Gwalior the middle kingdom named after Sage Gwalipa is one of the best holiday destinations in Madhya Pradesh. This is the land where sharp swords matched rugged forts and ruthless ambition tested death giving birth to magnificent rock carvings, temples, palaces and forts making it a perfect weekend destination from Delhi.


The Gwalior fort is 300ft above the ground. The Kachhwahas and Tomars contributed most to its culture and architecture, whereas early Mohammedans, and later the Mughals, used the fort as a state prison. There were three main entrances to the fort of which the east and the west entrances are now accessible. The eastern entrance is guarded by the Urwahi Gate, and the western by six gates built in different periods by different kings all situated on the 2500 ft long ramp leading to the fort. Then there is the Urwahi rock which is falling on two sides of the valley which is home to 22 Jain rock sculptures while walking on the ramp of the fort on the left side. Inside the fort the most impressive structure is the Man Singh Palace. Inside is the dancing hall surrounded by a balcony and a courtyard besides many rooms and staircases leading to underground passages. The southern part of the fort has the inlay work of marching ducks, crocodiles holding lotus, and parrots and tigers. Behind Man Mandir lies the Vikram Palace named after Man Singh’s son. Besides these two palaces there are 5 more palaces three of which were built by Hindu rulers and two by Mughals. The Jahangir Palace has the tank where Rajput queens committed jauhar following the invasion of the fort in 1232. Of the remaining Hindu palaces Gujari Mahal built by Raja Man Singh for his Gujjar love Mrignayani is now a state archaeological museum. It has a collection of decorative pillars, princely sculptures. The fort also includes two temples the Saas Bahu complex and the Teli ka Mandir. The Saas Bahu temples follow the 10th century North Indian temple dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva. The Teli ka Mandir is an 80ft hotchpotch structure with a massive shikara.

Inside the city there is the Mausoleum of Sheikh Muhammad Ghaus built during Akbar’s rule is what I liked. It is built on a square plan with hexagonal towers and flanked on four sides with dedicated stone lattices. He is said to be the saint who is said to have confessed that God had accorded him superiority over Prophet Muhammad. The grave of Tansen is a rectangular platform with a pillared gallery is standing near by. Then there is the famous tamarind tree that is said to have sweetened his voice is dead however in its place grows a younger tree that is regularly plucked by visitors wishing to repeat the miracle. Then there is the Jama Masjid nextto Gujari Mahal.

And then there is the Scindia legacy with the Jai Vilas Palace built at a cost of Rs 19 lakhs during the reign of Jiyagi Rao. The palace is three storey high and is decorated with Tuscan, Italian columns. It also has a museum displaying the famous silver dining train used to ferry champagne bottles around the table.

Find Driving Directions from Delhi to Gwalior here

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Thanedar hill station near to Delhi

Thanedar is in Himachal Pradesh, weekend getaway from Delhi also known as the apple Dom. Distance from Delhi to Thanedar is 421km. It is full of apple trees in the entire region. Arya Samaj Mandir is an uphill climb built by Stokes in typical pahari style; this stone temple stands in the middle of apple orchids. It was here that Stokes planted the first apple seed. Samuel stokes is a byword in this region. He planted trees in Kotgarh next door continue the reap a rich harvest even 100 years later. Harmony House, the stokes family house is located here on Barobag Hill. The rhododendron flower better known as rhodo in this part of the country, can be plucked of f a branch, washed an eaten raw. There are many Himcu shops in town who sell rhodo squash.

Samuel Stokes was an American missionary who headed to these hills in 1904 and transformed the village. It wasn’t the only missionary who found his way here. The presence of the Anglican Church in Kotgarh is today marked by a quaint wooden St Mary’s Church. The structure build in some 1800 is still a dazzling stained glass window and an array of cedar sculpted pews. And adjoining it is the Gorton Mission School started in 1843 according to the locals here.

The Tani Jubber Lake is 4km from Thanedar. You can take a car till the road ends and then climb 10 minutes. And as one push through the branches and bramble, the road clears and the ground beneath your feet becomes flat. The placid lake lies between the snows peaked mountains in the back ground. There is a local temple on one side of the lake which is not open to outsiders. In June, a fair is held at the lake at which local artisans and craftsmen display their waves.

Thanedar is also known as the fruit bowl of India. Thanedar, a good nearby getaway from Shimla is just 79 kms drive from Shimla.

Find driving directions from Delhi to Thanedar here.