Garhmukteshwar, Mini Banaras

I read about Garhmukteshwar in an article and looked for its map. It wasn’t very far plus what my guidebook suggested it was the closet to Delhi where the sacred Ganga flows. It was enough for me to get into my car and head off down the Delhi Lucknow highway on Saturday morning to hit the closest weekend getaway from Delhi.

Two hours later, at a fork on the road, a series of stalls, all selling modhas in various shapes, sizes and colours appeared and where they ended the Ganges showed up almost suddenly at a place called Brijghat.
Garhmukteshwar is like mini Banaras. The main attraction is the Ganges and the bathing ghat along it. The Ganges here can be seen flowing water as far as the eyes can see. The river here was of the colour of cold coffee, but unlike how she is at Haridwar and Rishikesh; the Ganga is much cleaner here. As there are no pieces of legs or length of arms that suddenly appears out of water, and there is no creepy feelings when you stick your legs in the water.

Along the left bank is a large marble platform that overlooks the river. In the middle of this is a walk away, I walked to its edge and stood looking at the scene around me. At the water’s edge was a line of small boats bobbing up and down. And in a break between two boats, a few pilgrims were taking a dip in the river. Next to the walkway, a series of flights of steps or ghats led to the river. And from its edge few boys were diving into the water from a mud flat to gather the coins which pilgrim’s offers to the river.

I went boating for Rs.100 and crossed the bathing ghat to the farms on the other shore. The ride took half an hour, but since it had rained recently, the river was full.
Then the Ganga Devi temple is on the road that goes to Garhmukteshwar, the village near the Ganga is quite old and famous. From this temple the road twists and turns through the sleepy town of Garhmukteshwar.

Follow the twists for five minutes and you will reach a gate with an archway and a large bell hanging at its centre. Inside is a complex of temples, surrounding a central courtyard: Jarkandeshwar Temple in the north, a Shiva temple in the centre, a Kali temple in the left and a Hanuman temple at the entrance. In front is the well that gives the name to the place as Nakka Kuan.

After the temples I went to view the chattris of local Gurudwara. It is said that at Garhmukteshwar the Sikh Guru Teg Bahadur has said to release Raja Nakh from the curse of the celestial being Rambha, who had turned him into snake.

There is no hotel in Garhmukteshwar to stay however towards Amroha side and 10kms from Garhmukteshwar is the Vasant Continental hotel and Midway Mortal approx 15 km.

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Saputara, dispatch from the dangs

Saputara is the only hill station in Gujarat. Saputara was names by the Dangs tribal of the Gujarat districts for they came here during festivals like Holi and Nag Panchmi worship the snake on the bank of nearby Sarpganga River. The air is chilly and the mists fall over the town in the evenings. Plenty of walking is possible and if it’s just a quite getaway one is looking for, Saputara is ideal, and streets ahead of the Lonavalas, Igatpuris that populate Mumbai’s imagination. Saputara overlooks the green valley as there are no auto rickshaws or taxis here as it is so small.

It is a vacation spot for trekking or taking leisurely walks around the lake and the hills. There are quite a few gardens like Rose garden, Step garden and Lake Garden if walking gets too much. There are also few points worth a visit like Echo point and Town view point if you want to gaze at hills. Then there are tribal villages of Bhils, Warlis and Gamits close enough to trek to. Then there are also Hatgadh fort and Pandava Caves to explore all on foot. And the legend goes that Ram spent his 11 years of his 14 years in exile walking about in the forests here. You can also go through the rope way if you are not interested in the treks which will give you the rides and the views. The placid lake is one of the Saputara main attractions and the paddleboats here operate throughout the year.

The Saputara Museum is small, just a couple of rooms which showcase the life and arts of the Dangs tribal. Then we also have the Brahma Kumari establishment here. The local Dang tribal are famous for bamboo handicrafts like pen stands, key chains, jewellery and masks. The town also has an artist’s village and a centre for honey.

Saputara has plenty of places to stay in like Toran Hill resort, Vaity ropeway Resort, Hotel Anando and many more.

Malshej Ghat, up where you belong

When we reached Malshej ghat we did not required the sign board. We entered a short regular tunnel, little expecting the light at the end of it to fall on waterfalls cascading down as if the set designer of the ghats was suddenly overcome with recklessness and decided to see how much beauty one place could handle.

The drive up was beautiful enough, but when we got the first view of the backwaters of Pimpalgaon Joga dam, the picture has the kind of ethereal quality that marked our breath catch in our throat.

Malshej Ghat is a wildly beautiful haven of towering peaks and bottomless valleys, home to a hundred different kind of flora and fauna, and mountain air so fragment and pure, I wished I could pack some to take back home.

Perched on the very edge of a plateau, the MTDC hotel, managed by a private party, is gifted with the best location. But just 160- odd ft from its restaurant, in the hotel’s very backyard is lands end. A gentle rain blows in a tired breeze as we walked to the edge. As we looked down to the valley, the drizzle changes its route; it begins to rain upwards, from downwards. As we trekked up the hills we saw again a giant waterfall that rises up into the air instead of falling down into the valley, such is the force of the winds in these ghats. Malshej what I discovered is for long walks down twisting mountain trails, for plucking wild flowers for your beloved, for shouting something into the valleys and waiting for affirmation.

In the monsoon, Malshej has series of waterfalls. One or two falls generously right on the state highway taking a bath and having hot pakoras is a ultimate start away for a weekend in a Malshej ghat. Right at the point where the falls makes a mess of narrow curving state highway is what the government calls the Nature spot. While on one side of the road water gushes out from the hilltops, the other side is a huge empty expansion of white mist and bright green. Malshej is very wet in monsoon as it rains from all sides here, even from below as we have seen.
We stayed as the Flamingo Hill resort, and then there is Sushant Holiday resort

Pachmarhi, Primeval Wilderness

Pachmarhi is India’s unusual getaways little hill station. It is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh, and nestles in a small saucer shaped plateau. It enclosed a primeval landscape of lush sal and bamboo forest. When I went there the town according to me consists of small bazaar, an army station and a sprawling civil area that retained a distinct colonial ambience. Pachmarhi was the summer capital of the former Central provinces and used to host a major golf tournament.

I went on a jeep tour to view the famous sunset from Dhupgarh, Bee falls and the Jatashankar and Mahadeo shrines. However I walked to Fairy Pool and the for the specular view of all these falls I climbed up the Chauragarh Peak, which according to a local springs to life during the annual Shivratri mela, with lakhs of trishul- carrying yatris snaking up from the neighboring Chindwara District. Within the civil area was the Buddhist period, rock – hewn Pandav Caves, the government gardens and Bison Lodge, a museum. I enjoyed the ideal mode of transport bicycle in Pachmarhi. Then a scenic two hour walk is the bridle path around Astachal rejoining the road near the cave of Reechgarh, and passing by the Dorothy Deep rock shelter.

Then I went to Satpura National Park, to the west and north of Pachmarhi. It offered spectacular scenery and varied wildlife like bison, sambhar and the occasional cat. I visited the park by jeep from the Neemgham entrance.

I stayed at Rock End Manor which is a bungalow situated on a hillock. Then there is Saptura Retreat, Evelyn’s Own, Panchvati cottages and many to go.

Khajuraho, Many explanations for love

Khajuraho conjures up images of a society that celebrated life and was not abashed by sex. It was the first capital of Chandelas, who rose to rule the region in the 9th century. Right from the onset Khajuraho was envisaged as a temple town, which accounts for the absence of any non religious structures other than tanks and lakes.

We started our journey from The Western Group, near the Shiv Sagar, by either hiring an auto headset from its ticket booth or hiring a guide. We started on cycles as Khajuraho is best when exploded from cycles which are available from stands in front of the Western Group.

The temples in this complex were large and lavishly decorated, displaying the wealth and power of its rulers. These are dedicated either to Vishnu or Shiva. The most refined temple in the complex, the Lakshmana Temple is the seat of Vishnu as Vaikuntham. The enshrined statue was 4-ft high, has three faces lion, man and boar and is said to have been acquired from the Kashmir – Chamba region. On its base, starting from the left are depictions from everyday life, including marching armies, domestic life, dancers and orgies. The temple has four subsidiary shrines on its platform. In front of the temple are two smaller shrines, one dedicated to the Devi and other to Varaha.

The Kandariya Mahadeva, an extremely harmonious and rhythmic temple is a Shiva temple. Standing on the same platform and north of the Kandariya Mahadev temple, the Devi Jagadamba Temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, its special feature include imaginative renditions of shardulas, mythical beasts with the body of lion and the head of a parrot, elephant or boar. The only sun temple in Khajuraho, the Chandragupta Temple stands fourth on the same platform. It houses a 7 ft image of the sun god dressed in armored coat and boots. The sun stands on a chariot pulled by seven horses. The temple’s other special features include a scene of sculptors at their work carved on the plinth, and an interesting statue of an 11 headed Vishnu on the South Hall. Through the garden, towards the east, lies the Parvati Temple, a small shrine believed to have been dedicated to Vishnu. And to the right of the Parvati Temple stands Vishwanatha Temple, the grandest temple of Khajuraho, dedicated to Shiva, its special features include an intact Nandi shrine, apsaras writing letters, playing music and so on; and a stone lingam.

Matangeshwara Temple, the only living temple, stands outside the enclosure, just next to the Lakshmana Temple is dedicated to Shiva.
The Eastern group of temples is divided into two rough clusters. The first bunch of four temples falls near the Old Khajuraho Village and the other, comprising Jain temples falls behind of the school at the back of the village. We begin with the Ghantai Temple which is on the edge of the old village, and there were only pillars bearing carved bell and chain motifs left. The Vamana Temple enshrined a chubby dwarf, interpreted either as a vamana or a Vishnu incarnation. The nearby Javari Temple is dedicated to Vishnu. The Jain temples are situated within a compound constructed and maintained by the Digambara sect. The largest of these temples was dedicated to Adinath; its special feature is that the both Hindu pantheon and figures associated with Jainism can be finding representing on its wall.
In the Southern Group there are only two temples one dedicated to Lord Shiva and is called Duladeva Temple and the other to Lord Vishnu and is called Chaturbhuj Temple.
There are three museums which we visited where they were sculptures of Vishnu, Shiva and Jain figures.

There are lots of places of shopping in Khajuraho selling iron, brass and stone things. There are all types of luxury hotels in Khajuraho like The Grand Temple View, Holiday Inn and many more.

Hampi, the soul amidst the ruins

Hampi is a historical site scattered with ruins and excavations in Karnataka. As the capital of the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagara and was a beautiful city in its prime. Entering the vicinity of Hampi, I saw massive boulders in the largely rocky landscape, balanced on or against seemingly precarious positions. Hampi is a weekend getaway from Bangalore. Its silence can settle into our soul and we can begin to feel its vibrations. I found places of great natural beauty in mountains, seaside’s, plains and deserts.

The village of Hampi has one main street Hampi Bazaar, which is closed to all vehicular traffic. The bus stand is just off it on the eastern side. At the western extreme is the Virupaksha Temple and the eastern extreme of the street is the museum at the base of Matangi Hill, run by the Directorate of Archaeology and Museums. And a few meters from this are the steps that lead to the Achutaraya Temple, which bypasses the Matangi Hill.

We hired cycles to ride as it was the best way to see the place. We carried sun creams, for protection from the sun, and carried a picnic lunch and water along. On our first day here and we boarded a car to get the overview of the ruins, however if you are not into affection for history then Hampi is not for you. As there are no pubs, no non veg restaurants, none of the ease of conversation one can strike up. The sites were plenty and absolutely not to miss where the Virupaksha Temple, Vittala Temple, Queen’s bath, Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stable, Underground well, Mint and the Watch Tower, Hampi Bazaar, Sule Bazaar, Tungabhadra Dam, Hanuman Temple across the river at Anegundi.

Then there was a photo exhibition at the museum situated at the bottom of Matangi Hill. It consists of 60 enlarged pictures of Hampi taken by a British photographer around 200 years ago.
While other places boast boat rides across placid lakes and rubber dignity rides on fiery rapids, Hampi allows you to cross the nicely moving Tungabhadra River in what’s look like a coconut shell. This coracle not only depends entirely on the skills of boatman to move it along and prevent it from capsizing, it also requires you to squat on the sloped edges before it can move.

There are many Hampi hotels that are starting from Rs. 100 – Rs. 600 per day all over the Hampi Bazaar.